Stube Hermitage, Madonna di Campiglio, TN March 7, 2014

On our last night of vacation we decided to splurge yet again, on another wonderful dinner in Madonna di Campiglio.  I did a little research and found the Bio Hotel Hermitage. 

I noticed that it wasn’t that close to our hotel though.  When I called to make the reservation I asked if they had a shuttle service?  The gracious receptionist asked where we were staying and then she said that they could pick us up, and after they would call us a taxi to go home.  Great solution!

The shuttle service picked us up punctually at 8:15 and after a 7 minute or so drive up the hill we arrived to the Hermitage.  We were warmly greeted by the hostess, Signoria Maffei, I believe, our coats were taken and then she suggested that we have an aperitivo in the lounge/bar.  We of course accepted the suggestion, and were told to sit wherever we wanted.  There was a musician playing lite electric piano bar music and the atmosphere was warm & cozy.

That evening there was a special promotional event sponsored by the Trentino Sparkling Wine Makers Union, so the nice glass of bubbly was on the house. 

After 10 minutes or so a gentleman Signore Maffei, I believe, dressed in typical Trentino mountain costume came to our table and said we are ready whenever you are.  It was so nice.

We walked passed this beautiful decorated Christmas tree on the wall that Signoria Maffei created. 

As I was taking a photo of it she said I just can’t take it down yet. 

The main Hotel dining room was very active, but we were guided into the Stube.

Stube, after everyone but us left

this was the Trentino Sparkling wine,
but with dinner we drank a
St. Valentin Chardonnay

My Scampo di Porto Santo Spirito, and yes it tasted as good as it looks!

detail of the perfectly stacked filetto

cheese condiments

Warm light, cozy setting and the attention to detail was impeccable. 

cozy atmosphere

I was handed the ladies menu with no prices of which everything sounded wonderful. 

unique place setting, minimal elegance,
where the silverware was brought according
to what you ordered

a complimentary appetizer with truffles 

ice bucket

Graziano's Tartare di Tonno Rosso della Sicilia

Graziano's Spaghetti monograo di Felicetti

My Filetto di Rombo selvatico 

Graziano had the local cheese
for desert

My mixed sorbet desert, just beautiful

Even though there was venison on the menu I resisted and went for the fish.  The photo’s will explain the rest.

bread & local butter                                     

La Palazzola, Umbria's Best Bubbly

Years ago I was at Civico 25 in Perugia and Filippo proudly poured us a glass of this sparkling Riesling.  He said,”try this it's amazing, and I'm so proud to say that it's Umbrian.”  We tried it and agreed with Filippo, it was excellent, and from Umbria, not your typical bubbly wine source.

Years later I found myself at the winery of La Palazzola.  

I always like to do a winery visit and create an identity with the terroir, wine and viticoltore.

I called 2 days before and made an appointment to visit the winery.  It was a cold winter afternoon in Terni, ideal to go wine tasting. This place wasn't easy to find, but thanks to a call into my wine guy we found it with no probelm, but without that call we wouldn’t have found it at all.  There is no name that identifies the winery, and I think Mr. Grilli likes it that way.

After a short wait in the periwinkle blue tasting room, while listening to some baroque classical music, 

we were lead on a winery tour by Stefano Grilli, who called himself a “Spumantista”(one who makes sparkling wine).

Stefano Grilli is, a lets say, a unique man who really knows what he is doing.

licheni, a type of fungus that only grows on the bark of vines where no pesticides have been used

He cultivates mostly international grape varietals with Trebbiano as his only local grape.

anfore full of an experimental Trebbiano

  

Stefano Grilli

We tried a couple of Trebbiano’s one straight from the vat

that were quite good and another from the bottle Stefano pulled out of the ridding rack.  

Il Trebbiano

pupitres-ridding racks

After tasting those he asked me what my favorite wine was, and I said Pinot Noir.  He gets up from the table, disappears for 5 minutes and comes back with 2 bottles of Pinot, one from 1997 &1998.  

Pinot Noir

I didn't know he made a Pinot.  I knew he had Pinot, but I thought it was strictly used for his Brut.

I have never tried a Pinot Noir from central Italy that I liked until today.

This Pinot was really close to the style of a Pommard.  Liked it.  Mr. Grilli even gave me a bottle to take home.  Unfortunately they don't make it anymore.  He also was really happy to go get a shovel and dig me up a terroir sample too.  Very interesting afternoon which gave me a clear identity of La Palazzola which will not be forgotten.